Baladeulyn
Then and Now by
Thomas Alun Williams
Select one of the following subtitles to learn more about the relevant subject:
1. Introdction
2. Baladeulyn
3. Before the arrival of Edward 1st in the area
4. Edward 1st in Nantlle
5. The Mountains of the Nantlle Valley
6. The Nantlle Lakes
7. The Rivers of Nantlle
8. Nantlle Farms
9. Rhos Pawl
10. Margaret Evans (Marged Fwyn Uch Ifan)
11. Talymignedd Isaf
12. Ffridd Baladeulyn
13. Yr Hen Dŷ Mawr
14. Castell Caernowy
15. Gwernoer
16. Tŷ'n y Nant, Nantlle
17. The First Sunday School in Baladeulyn
18. Adapting the Chapel Windows
19. The Period Between The Wars
20. Deulyn Band 1880
21. The Francis Brothers 1876 – 1936
22. No Traffic 1925-1927
23. Entertainment before 1939
24. Nantlle Youth Club’s Weekly Paper
25. The Club Diary
26. Notes from the Valley
27. The Poets’ Column
28. The Youth Club
29. Also from the past
30. Antiquaries
31. Baladeulyn, Nant Nantlle Today
32. A list of the names of the Quarries
Introduction
Nantlle
(Nant Lleu)
Over the years, poets have praised Nantlle Valley for its natural beauty, a veritable
earthly paradise and inspiration to the bards. But
understandably, the visitor is immediately struck by
the scars and spoil of the once flourishing slate industry
and the solid outlines of Non-conformist chapels.
Eisteddfod winner R Williams Parry, a foremost Welsh Language poet, who was born
in Talysarn, captures these contrasts in his sonnet
“Ddoe a Heddiw” (Yesterday and Today). He describes
a conversation between a visitor, who knows that there
is only one lake in the valley now
and of the legends of mystery and magic in days of
old, and a local resident who tells him of the two
new “civilisations” of Quarrying and Chapel-going,
which had superseded it.
Indeed, Dyffryn Nantlle
is known by many people across the globe as the setting
for one of the most important
episodes in the Mabinogion, a collection of ancient
Welsh tales and legends first committed to writing
in the 14th and 15th centuries – a classic of world
literature.
Let us go back to the
yesteryear of the Mabinogion, and summarise the conclusion
of the story of Lleu in the fourth branch, together
with Math Fab Mathonwy and Gwydion. At the instigation of his wife, Lleu was attacked by
his enemy and turned himself into an eagle as he fled
to the safety of the branches of the great oak tree
on the shores of Nantlle Lake, where the sow came to
feast on the strips of flesh that fell from Lleu, until
Gwydion came by and turned him back into his true nature.
(The original poems may be seen on the Welsh version of this web page.) [ Back to the Top ]
Baladeulyn
The meaning of the word Bala is a place at the outflow of a lake, in this case
the piece of land between Llyn Uchaf (Upper Nantlle
Lake) and Llyn Isaf (Lower Nantlle Lake). But unfortunately
there’s only one lake in Baladeulyn now where the River
Llyfni follows its course through the valley to the
sea.
Again, R Williams Parry writes of the “Spotless Meadow”
of Dol Pebin in the Mabinogion and its disfigurement
by the rubble tip of Cloddfa Glai Quarry.
It is rumoured
that Edward 1st of England once held a tournament
there, but certainly, part of it was the
football ground of Talysarn Celts for many years
after the First World War – the nature of the game
changes
with the years, but the eternal contest continues.
[ Back to the Top ]
Before the arrival of Edward 1s in the area
The Lord of Baladeulyn was Tudur ab Engan, (or Einion), a descendant of Owain
Gwynedd of Eifionydd. Engan’s sister was Sena (or Senena)
who married Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, who was the mother
of Llywelyn ab Gruffydd, that is to say Llywelyn the
Last. Engan’s son was was Tudur ab Engan.
When Edward 1st came to stay at Baladeulyn, Tudur was
dispossessed of all his lands through the greed of
Matilda, Edward’s wife. But by way of establishing
peace between Wales and England, a petition in Latin
was sent to King Edward asking to have the lands restored.
This was granted and signed by Tudur ab Engan, and
his sister Gwerfyl, according to the essay on The History
of Dyffryn Nantlle by William Ambrose.
It is said that Ty’n y Nant was the home of Tudur ab
Engan when Edward 1st stayed at Baladeulyn, and according
to tradition, the Prince of Wales was born there and
taken secretly to Caernarfon, but there is neither
certainty nor foundation to this assertion.
Early on in Edward 3rd’s time, the descendants of Cilmin
Droed-ddu established themselves in Nantlle. The descendents
of Cilmin were Ednowen and Philip, the one inherited
Bodfan near Dinlle, and the other Glynllifon. According
to William Ambrose, the great grandson of Ednowen was
Ieuan who had a son named Einion, and Einion’s son
was Gronw who was the father of Tudur Goch, Nantlle.
He was famous as a soldier in the army of Edward 3rd
who fought under his banner at the battle of Cressey
in 1346, and later in the armies of Edward, the Black
Prince at Poiters in 1356 when the King of France was
taken captive: as a favour to Tudur Goch, Edward 3rd
gave him land in Nant Nantlle or Baladeulyn and he
built a mansion in Nantlle.
[ Back to the Top ]
Edward 1st in Nantlle
The village of Nantlle was established at the eastern end of the valley, ending
at the village of Drws y Coed, and in that place it
is said that the Romans began mining for copper. At
that time, thick forests covered the valley where wild
amimals sheltered, such as deer, wolves, foxes and
wild boar. Edward 1st overcame the Welsh Princes, starting his
campaign through the valley of Bettws Garmon to Rhyd
Ddu by way of Llyn Cwellyn, with his knights and armies.
He camped by Llyn y Dywarchen for some days because
he enjoyed the peace and wonderful views of Snowdonia.
Romance is also traditionally connected with this spot between Llyn Bwlch-y-Moch
and Llyn y Dywarchen, where the farmer’s son from Upper
Drws y Coed Farm fell in love with one of the Fair
Folk and brought up a family here. It is no suprise
that some of the small farmhouses carry names like
Llwyn y Forwyn and ‘Foty y Forwyn, in remembrance of
Penelope, the most beautiful maiden of them all. But she disappeared, returning to her own people, when
her husband unfortunately touched her with the iron
on the reins of a horse which he was trying to catch
to sell in Caernarfon.
Another story tells of this place being connected with
an incident when the soldiers of Edward 1st were riding
by Llyn y Dywarchen. The elderly mother of Howel ac
Ifor escaped by boat with her children across the lake.
She stood, arms aloft, cursing the enemy in her rage
and desperation as she disappeared from sight in the
boat.
As already mentioned, Edward travelled down the valley
and stopped for a while at Hen Dŷ Mawr Nantlle to provision
his retinue and stable his horses. A tournament was
held on the plain of Dôl Pebin where he announced the
birth of his first son, presenting him to the Welsh
people as the first Prince of Wales at Caernarfon Castle
in 1282.
Before the coming of Edward
1st, these valleys were the property of the Welsh princes
from the time of Owain Gwynedd (1137) where they owned
courts and mansions. They were fond of hunting in the
Royal Forests of Snowdonia and they were called the
Lords of Snowdon. Because of this, ordinary huntsmen
had to obtain a licence to hunt signed by the king
or prince. One of the courts of the Lords of Snowdon
was Llys Lywelyn in Baladeulin in the Nantlle Valley.
It is stated that the remains of the court’s foundations
are now under the rubble heaps of Pen yr Orsedd quarry
in Ceunant Tŷ'n Nant Uchaf and that the kitchen in
the field by the lake belonged to the court – To this
day the lakeside field by Plas Baladeulyn is known
as 'Cae Gegin Bach' (field of the little kitchen). [ Back to the Top ]
The Mountains of the Nantlle Valley
We will start by naming the mountains of the eastern end of the valley. In the
middle, between Mynydd Mawr and Craig y Bere, and Cam
Farchog stands “Y Garreg”, which extends to Bwlch Cyfyng
at the end of the steep slope of Drws y Coed, and by
the foot of Cwm Meredydd which faces Penallt and Rhos
Pawl and the foot of Mynydd Mawr we find Cwm Cerwyn
with its tales of yesteryear. It is said that in this
valley criminals would be executed by being placed
in a barrel with nails driven through it; then the
criminal would be dropped to the bottom of the valley
to his gruesome death.
If we follow the northern
side of the valley the land rises steeply above Ceunant
Tŷ’n Nant stretching
westward
to Mynydd Cilgwyn, onwards to Parc y Fodlas Talysarn
and Clogwyn Melyn.
There are more valleys on the southern side of
the valley with the following names - Cwm Talymignedd
Uchaf, Bwlch Whiscin, Crib y Ddysgl, Cwm Talymignedd
Isaf,
Bwlch Tros Bera, Cwm Silyn (known as Graig Las
locally),
Clogwyn Mawr and Craig yr Ogof, which is connected
to Graig Goch and Cwm Dulyn which is above the
villages of Tan-y-rallt, Llanllyfni, Nebo and Nasareth.
[ Back to the Top ]
The Nantlle Lakes
There were two lakes in Nantlle in the old days but after the arrival of industry
producing roof-slates and the development of quarries
throughout the valley, it proved necessary to change
the course of the River Llyfni and drain the water
from the Lower Nantlle Lake. Before that the course
of the river followed the south side of the valley
to the foot of Pen y Bryn at Sarn-Wyth-Dwr, where the
path crossed the river on eight stepping stones. But
in consequence of opening the new river bed, making
it in the form of a canal straight through the centre
of the valley past Llanllyfni to the sea, there was
a flood into the Dorothea workings in 1891. The small
village named Tre-grwyn was buried under the quarry
spoil heaps, and also the Sarn-Wyth-Dwr (causeway),
and it is likely that the name given to the quarry
village was Talysarn (it being on the ‘Brow of the
Causeway’).
The water broke though
into quarry workings for a second time in the 1920’s
and a special engine to raise water
was required to stop the workings from being inundated,
but today the quarry is full of water and the engine
has been idle for some years. There are two lakes
not visible from the village of Nantlle; the lakes
of Cwm
Silyn and Llyn Dulyn near Graig Goch. There is one
lake on the north side of Nantlle, which is Llyn
Ffynhonnau, at the foot of Mynydd Mawr near the village
of Y Fron.
In
the 18th cent. various famous painters came from
England to paint Snowdon and the Nantlle Lakes. They
include Richard Wilson RA 1714-1782, John Warwick
Smith
1797 and Cornelius Varley 1781-1873, also JohnTurner.
Richard Wilson’s work hangs in the Walker Art Gallery
in Liverpool.
[ Back to the Top ]
The Rivers of Nantlle
The chief river that runs through the valley is Afon Llyfnwy, or Llyfni and its
source is at the eastern end of the valley at Llyn
Bwlch y Moch above the village of Drws y Coed. It runs
to Llyn Nantlle Uchaf, but the early name for this
stretch was Afon Gopr because the water which
flowed from the copper and lead workings impared
the purity of the water. Not a single trout could survive
in the water which had been polluted by the copper
mines at Drws y Coed.
We then have Afon y Bala
which connects the two lakes, where we would, as children,
bathe in the whirlpool before the water disappeared
across the old lake bed through Talysarn. Other
small
rivers pour their waters into Afon Llyfnwy. Firstly
on the southern side of the valley flows Afon Gelli
Dywyll from the land of Talymignedd Uchaf to Afon
Gopr,
and next Afon Talymignedd Isaf, and after that
is Afon Rhydus on the lands of Ffridd which is the
boundary
between the two farms. Next are Afon Bach y Ffridd
and Afon Tŷ Coch, and Gwernoer on the edge of the
Nantlle
area.
On the left of the valley
we have Afon Gelli Ffrydiau and Afon Pontygelynnen,
Afon Bach yr Ysgol
and
Afon Caeronwy which flow through Ceunant Tŷ'n
Nant before
slipping out of sight under the Penyrorsedd Quarry
spoil heap reappearing as Afon Garth, before
passing under the main road through the garden of Plas
Baladeulyn, together with those named, to the
waters
of Upper
Llyn Nantlle. Another small stream flowed through
Penyrorsedd
Quarry, quenching the thirst of Ystablau Farm’s
cattle, and to turn the water wheel which was
there, flowing
onwards to complete the same process of turning
the water wheel at y Felin, when the mill was
at its
peak before the First World War and for a few
years after.
[ Back to the Top ]
Nantlle Farms
The farms which surround Nantlle and the Lake starting in the east are: Drws
y Coed Isaf, Gelli Ffrydiau, Lower and UpperTalymignedd
(Isaf and Uchaf), and finishing at Ffridd Baladeulyn,
Tŷ Coch and Gwernoer on the south side, and on the
northern side there are Geulan, Yr Ysgubor and Chaeronwy,
Blaen-y-Garth and Pen-y-Garth, then Y Bryn, Plas Baladeulyn
and Tŷ Mawr and Pen-y-Bryn. The oldest of these are
Hen Dŷ Mawr, Gelli Ffrydiau, Ffridd Baladeulyn, Caeronwy
(Caer Goronwy), y Talmigneddoedd, Y Geulan and Tiriogaeth
Baladeulyn.
In the latter Mr W A Darbyshire
lived, and there silage was first produced in the valley;
a purpose built structure had been built to complete
the process. The hay was put under high pressure
in
the building, the pressure being adjusted by a chain
and pulleys, compressing the silage so that the liquid
ran out of pipes in the base of the wall, and the
silage heated up and was collected to feed to the animals.
A tobacco-like smell spread all about the place.
The old house Gelli Ffrydiau
where Angharad James lived has an interesting history.
She was the daughter of
James Davies and Angharad Humphreys - according to
the old Welsh family custom, a girl would take the
first name of her mother and her father’s first name
as a surname (patronymic). Angharad James was blessed
with many talents, she could compose poetry - a genius
who had been highly educated because her parents
were better off than most and they took care that their
daughter had an education of the highest standard
and
this was advantageous to her in learning other languages,
also she immersed herself in Latin and became learned
in the law of the land.
Angharad had a harp and
according with her customary devotion, she wished
that her family
and their servants
would gather together and dance before retiring
for the night.
We heard the story of Angharad James, Gelli Ffrydiau
in school when we were little children in Nantlle,
and the words which we learned were forever impressed
on our memories:
"Mae tinc
y delyn ar Glwt y Ddawns
Clywch Angharad yn tiwnio"
Her family moved to Parlwr Panaman, Dolwyddelan when she was 20, and there she
continued with her old devotions on the harp. A descendant
of the family, Rev. John Jones Talysarn and his brother
Rev. David Jones preached in Gelli Ffrydiau according
to Rev. William Hobley in Hanes Methodistiaeth Arfon
(The History of Methodism in Arfon). William Hobley
lived in Y Gelli at one time and the letter H (from
his surname) is to be seen on the side of every sheep
there to this day.
[ Back to the Top ]
Rhos Pawl
Part of the land of Gelli Ffrydiau is Rhos Pawl which faces Talmigneddoedd, on
the south side of the valley, and borders on the side
of Mynydd Mawr. A romance is associated with the name
Rhos Pawl and here is the tradition connected to the
name. It is said that a youth from Gelli Farm had fallen
in love with the daughter of Talymignedd Uchaf, but
the girl’s father was not willing for them to marry.
The lad pleaded earnestly with the father for the hand
of the girl until in the end, the father agreed, but
on one condition; that the youth would go naked to
the top of Rhos Pawl on a freezing night and remain
there to the morning. The father expected the young
man to give up his suit. The youth accepted the challenge
and the condition, and brought a post with him, also
an axe and a mallet to repeatedly hammer the post into
the ground to keep his body warm, whilst his beloved
kept her lantern alight in her window throughout the
night. He succeded in keeping his blood warm by hammering
the post into the ground through the night until the morning came, presenting himself to the girl to the
great surprise of her father. Thus he won the hand
of his beloved whom he married and the name of Rhos
Pawl was immortalised.
[ Back to the Top ]
Margaret Evans (Marged
Fwyn Uch Ifan)
It is said that Margaret Evans, or rather Marged Fwyn Uch Ifan was born at Talymignedd
Uchaf, Nantlle. She was famous for her various talents,
and she kept an inn called Talernia below the Gelli
Turnpike where the miners of Drws y Coed would go to
sing and quench their thirsts. Her husband’s name was
William ab Rhisiard. She had two harps, and to the
sound of the harp there would be singing and dancing.
Marged owned a hunting dog, and she could make her
own boat and would fish on Llyn Nantlle. She was a
champion wrestler, equal to the men, and could compose
poetry as well. The field by Y Tyrpeg is still referred
to as Telerni. Eventually she moved to Nant Peris where
she entertained the residents for some time and her
remains were laid to rest in the cemetery there. There
is a memorial verse to her in Cymru Fu.
(The original
verse may be seen on the Welsh version of this web
page.)
[ Back to the Top ]
Talymignedd Isaf
The date 1712 and the two letters RG are above the door of one of the farm buildings.
It is believed that RG was Richard Garnon, the owner
at the time, and that he also lived in Pant Du Farm
near Penygroes. There was another cottage, whose ruins
are visible today between the two Talymignedds and
it was called Talymignedd Ganol and a footpath connected
them all. The family of Talymignedd Ganol moved to
Nantlle village to pursue their livihood in Penyrorsedd
Quarry. The two brothers were known as Dafydd Williams
and Robert Williams, Talymignedd Ganol.
The present owner of the two Talymignedds is a descendent of two famous lineages
in the area of Arfon, that is to say from Edmwnd Prys,
Archdeacon of Meirionydd 1544-1623 and from the famous
Robert Hughes, Uwchlaw'r Ffynnon in Eifionydd. It must
be noted here that Hugh Jones, Talymignedd Isaf was
prominent in the cause of the Welsh Congregational
Church (Annibynwyr) at Drws y Coed, especially for
his zeal and energetic contribution to rebuilding the
present chapel after the former chapel was destroyed
by a great boulder that fell from Mynydd Meredydd in
1882. The family had placed a memorial plaque on the
boulder beside the road where the old chapel stood
to remember the serious incident that happened there
in 1836. Thanks and praise should be paid to Hugh Jones
for travelling with cart and two horses to Chester
to get wood to build the new chapel. He also succeded
in obtaining roof slates free from the generous Mr
W A Darbyshire, Plas Baladeulyn, overseer of Penyrorsedd
Quarry.
[ Back to the Top ]
Ffridd Baladeulyn
Since the quarries came to the valley there is a new building in Ffridd Baladeulyn
which at one time belonged to the Dorothea Estate.
Here two of the most prominent preachers of their time
were brought up. They were John Roberts and Robert
Roberts, sons of Robert Thomas and Catrin Jones; John
Roberts was born in 1752 and was a shepherd at Blaenygarth,
he died aged 82 in1834 and his son was Michael Roberts.
Many of his family are in the U.S.A.
Robert Roberts was spoken of as an angel in everyday speech; he was not a physically
strong man, his health was weak, but he became
famous as a preacher among the Calvinistic Methodists
and he was referred to as Robert Roberts, Clynnog.
His brother John Roberts also became famous as a preacher
and he was called John Roberts, Llangwm because it
was there that he lived for the greater part of his
life. Some of his descendants returned from America
to visit Baladeulyn and took a photograph of the place
where their forebears where brought up. I was in contact
with some of them when they called here and left me
a copy of their family tree. It was a joy to us both
to trace the mutual family connections to the third
and fourth generations.
In 1854 an old stone pulpit and an iron candlestick were found in the environs
of Ffridd. The candlestick came into the possession
of Parch D O'Brien Owen but it is not known what became
of the old stone pulpit.
[ Back to the Top ]
Yr Hen Dŷ Mawr
This is one of the oldest houses in the village of Nantlle and its history goes
back to the time of Edward 1st and parts of its walls
are four feet thick. It is said that Edward 1st had
stayed here for some days and had stabled his horses
and held a tournament in the nearby meadows at Baladeulyn
and Dol Bebin; this was before the age of the slate
quarries.
In the year 1826, near Hen Dy Mawr, two gold medals or coins were found; on one
side was stamped the image of Edward 1st , sword in
hand, sitting in a ship – around it are inscribed the
Latin EDWARD, DEI, GRA, REX ANGL, DAS HYB DAQUI'. On
the other side are stamped four lions and four crowns
with the following words - 'ipse, aniem, Transienu,
per, medium, morwm ibat'.
[ Back to the Top ]
Castell Caeronwy
In the year 1847 near Castell Caeronwy, a number of shillings commemorating Henry
VIII were found, and close to the same spot a heavy
lump of smelted copper was discovered , which came
into the possession of John Lloyd Jones, Baladeulyn,
son of the celebrated Rev. John Jones Talysarn.
[ Back to the Top ]
Gwernoer
In the olden days, Gwernoer bordered on Tŷ Coch Farm, which was on the shore
of Llyn Isaf Nantlle, the old home of Rev. David Hughes,a
most cultured man, who was a lecturer at Cambridge
where he stayed for the rest of his life. There is
a memorial to him in the renowned college recalling
his generous and liberal spirit. He shared all his
property between his relations and his Welsh pauper-contemporaries.
[ Back to the Top ]
Tŷ'n y Nant,
Nantlle
Mention has already been made of Ty’n y Nant where there was once a noble family’s
mansion, which is now under the spoil heap of Penyrorsedd
Quarry. In that place was the dwelling and court of
the Welsh Princes. The great mound that was there was
excavated and a large upturned earthenware urn full
of ashes and charcoal was found. Rev. John Jones was
of the opinion that this was the burial place of Mabon
ab Madron because his grave was in the uplands of Nant
Lleu (Nantlle) according to Englynion y Beddau.
[ Back to the Top ]
The First Sunday School in Baladeulyn
According to the biography of Rev. William Hobley, and through the help of the
biography of my great grandfather Owen J Hughes, Y
Grafog, it is said that the Methodists organised preaching
and also established the first Sunday schools in Gelli
Ffrydiau and Ffridd Baladeulyn. When the slate industry
came into full production in Dyffryn Nantlle, Owen
J Hughes said that it was in Hen Dŷ'r Felin in about
1857 that they started to hold Sunday schools for a
period of time. The establishment was assisted for
some time by John Robinson, Talysarn, who was a deacon.
He persuaded John Lloyd Jones in Y Plas to help him.
There were 19 members then present and it was moved
to Hen Dŷ Mawr later. It remained there for two years,
increasing in membership from 80 to 100 in number.
In 1859, 87 was collected to repair and adapt Hen Ysgubor in Hen Dŷ Mawr, and
the first service was held on the following Easter
Monday, led by Robert Hughes Uwchlaw'r Ffynnon, J.
Jones Brynrodyn and Edward Jones, Welsh Congregational
(Annibynwyr) Minister in Talysarn.
In 1859, £87 was collected to repair and adapt Hen Ysgubor in Hen Dŷ Mawr, and
the first service was held on the following Easter
Monday, led by Robert Hughes Uwchlaw'r Ffynnon, J.
Jones Brynrodyn and Edward Jones, Welsh Congregational
(Annibynwyr) Minister in Talysarn.
At that time, there were only some 20 houses in the neibourhood of the chapel
and young people were beginning to settle in the village.
The leader of the cause was J Robinson but J Lloyd
Jones was the natural leader, David Davies the secretary
and O J Hughes yn the first overseer of the Sunday
School.
Richard Davies, Caernarfon was the builder and the roof was of three types of
slate coloured blue and red, pews of red fir wood without
doors, the pulpit of pitchpine, and the floor of many
coloured tiles, a half-round ceiling and thirteen windows,
four brass lamps with three chains each. At the same
time a chapel house was built and on 27 February the
first lecture in the chapel was given by David Saunders
on “The Government of the Pope”. There was a profit
of £20, and the following day Owen Jones, Plas Gwyn,
John Griffiths Bethesda a David Saunders preached.
J Lloyd Jones moved from Baladeulyn to live in Bontnewydd in 1874 and in 1876
Edward Davies was chosen as Treasurer.
In 1884 new deacons were appointed - Thomas Roberts, Caeronwy, in 1887 John Jones
y Geulan, Thomas Evans and Richard Morris Griffiths,
and in 1893.
Rev Morris Williams of Llangwn received the call to come as minister to Baladeulyn
MC.
In 1900 the old chapel was pulled down and a new chapel was built. The architect
was R Lloyd Jones, Caernarfon and the builder was Richard
Jones, Llanwnda. The whole undertaking was £2,700 and
the total expenses were £3,000. The debt for the first
chapel was paid by 1884 and the debt for the new chapel
was £1946 by the end of 1900. The church numbers were
195 and the children 142. The second chapel was demolished
in 1985 and the Vestry was converted into a chapel.
[ Back to the Top ]
Adapting the Chapel Windows
Because of the poor condition of the second chapel, there was not sufficient
money in hand to pay the repair cost. There was extensive
damp on the walls and the structural timbers were so
affected by dry rot and water, that the Building Committee,
under the leadership of the minister, Rev Brian M Griffith
went to ask the Finance Board and the Denominational
Loans Fund for help, and £36,000 was received from
them. £1,000 was received from Sir David James, Pantyfedwen
and also a gift of £1,000 from the Works Committee.
Through the gifts of members and friends of the church
and the sale of property, pews and bank interest £48,234.3.8
was received.
The architects were the Robert Davies Partnership, and the company which undertook
the demolition and adaptations was the Brecon Company.
The pulpit, stained glass windows, stone front facing
and old chapel doors were retained. In the meantime,
from January to November 1985, the church held Sunday
Services in Drws y Coed Chapel, thanks to the great
kindness of the members there. On Friday 8/11/1985,
the inaugural meeting was led by Brian M Griffith,
back from Capel Tegid and Llanfor, Bala who gave his
address and his messages to the church. Now, Baladeulyn
MC Church has no Minister, but plans are afoot to accept
a Pastor. Although we lost Rev. Geraint Roberts who
followed Rev Brian M Griffith, the church continues
to flourish, without debts.
But unfortunately the number of members has dropped to 39 and two deaconesses,
three children and 8 members of Sunday School.
There are two memorials in the entrance hall to remember the boys who fell in
the two World Wars, one within the door and one in
the Chapel Garden facing the Post Road, together with
a monument and the name of the chapel.
[ Back to the Top ]
The Period Between The Wars
The first deacons that I remember seeing in chapel before my teens were Thomas
Roberts, Caeronwy who was followed by his son William
Thomas Roberts; Thomas John Davies, Village Headmaster;
Thomas Evans, quarryman and farmer; Evan Thomas Hughes,
quarry official; John Edward Roberts, Blaenygarth;
Owen John Hughes, Y Grafog (my mother’s grandfather,
who was a deacon for 40 years) and later Jonathan Parry
Pritchard, chief engineer of the quarry. The Minister
from 1893 to 1930 was Rev Morris Williams formerly
of Langwm who retired to Llanwnda together with Miss
Richards his housekeeper. The former treasurer Richard
Morris Jones retired from Siop y Felin to live with
his wife in Rhoslan, Cricieth in 1914.
In the early 30s Rev R J Powell was accepted as Minister of this church. He was
a native of Trawsfynydd and he settled in Nantlle with
his wife Mrs E Powell and their daughter Mair in Bronallt
(Tŷ'r Capel) for some years before retiring to Liverpool.
A prominent place was taken by the Band of Hope and the Reading and Prayer Meetings.
It worked tirelessly with the young people of the Church,
the Sunday School, and the Vestry until the outbreak
of the Second World War in 1939. This was the beginning
of the drop in membership and deacon numbers, and the
young men scattered like chaff to the four corners
of the world. But Mr Powell continued to write and
keep in contact with them, including the deacons who
were once Sunday school teachers. He ensured that each
boy received a New Testament from Baladeulyn Church,
and my copy wandered the world with me through six
years of warfare. A “Soldiers’ Comforts” Committee
was elected in the village and they set up a fund for
this purpose. The Treasurer was Harry Lloyd Roberts,
and the secretary was my sister Ella Williams, whose
job was as a clerk in The Military Division at the
Barracks in Caernarfon. Much help was had from the
Pritchard Brothers, Y Porth, Caernarfon in transporting
tents, furniture etc, holding sheep dog trials, dances and concerts to swell the coffers of the Soldiers’ Comforts.
Both joy and sorrow came to the village when Armistice Day came in 1945. 4 of
the village lads had been killed, 10 were discharged,
and the number that returned safely after serving King
George was 33 – a total of 47.
The Soldiers’ Comforts Committee had to decide what to do with the funds in hand,
and a letter was sent to each soldier offering these
three options to vote for:
- Have a public footpath
around Lake Nantlle, the farmers being agreeable
to this proposal.
- Raise a Village Hall on Quarry
Lands.
- Share the money between the former soldiers.
The majority voted
in favour of the third proposal (to share the money)
and £6 was given to each of the 47 ex-soldiers. (12
had voted for the first proposal.) The soldiers were
short of money; some were married and needed to start
a livelihood anew, such that most were forced to
stray from their home area and follow a new career
and make a home across the border in England.
[ Back to the Top ]
Deulyn Band 1880
During the last quarter of the 19th cent. when the slate quarries were at their
peak, the Deulyn Band came into existence under the
baton of William Derby, manager of the lead and copper
mine at Simdde'r Ddylluan in Drws y Coed. He was Cornish
by birth and learned his Welsh by attending the Sunday
services in Baladeulyn, and there he married Ann Hughes,
eldest daughter of the antiquary Owen J Hughes Grafog,
my mother’s grandfather. They emigrated from Nantlle
to New Zealand in 1881 with one daughter, Matilda,
14 months old. The band was sponsored by William A
Derbyshire Esquire, Plas Baladeulyn by giving them
the instruments through the Penyrorsedd Quarry Company,
Nantlle. The band won various competitions and were
awarded medals after winning a competition in Rhyl.
After the departure of William Dudley and his family
for New Zealand, the leadership was transferred into
the hands of William G Jones (Corn Mawr). Four of his
sons and his grandson Willie J Jones were members of
the band.
Richard W Jones, eldest son of W G Jones speaks of his experiences as a member
of the band when he was only 9 years old, when some
local bands gathered at Llandudno to celebrate the
official opening of Pier. He was on the top row of
the stage when the bands struck the first note so powerfully
that the shaky staging collapsed leaving Richard and
others on the top row. They did not fall to the stage
but were rescued by their fellow instrumentalists.
Later on the Deulyn Band was amalgamated with Talysarn Band to form Nantlle Vale
Band, under the leadership of William G Jones. They
had the privilege of playing in the Crystal Palace,
London, thereby adding “Royal” to their name; thereafter
called Nantlle Vale Royal Silver Band.
The band would frequently go around the villages to raise money in order to compete
at Belle Vue, Manchester. One time they went to Plas
Baladeulyn to perform for Mr and Mrs Stonor, starting
ahead of their conductor Johnnie Evans, Penygroes who
had been delayed. He was hurrying along on his bicycle
on the old road between Talysarn and Nantlle when he
had a fatal accident on Bryn Copr Bank near Pen y Bryn.
The whole valley was horrified by this tragic news
and the sorrowful place was marked with a white cross
next to the wall by Owen Jones, Hen Blas Nantlle in
memory of the talented conductor Johnnie Evans.
[ Back to the Top ]
The Francis Brothers 1876 - 1936
Two brothers who put Baladeulyn, Nantlle on the map were the Francis Brothers,
champion Penillion singers. William G Francis was a
poet and his contribution of excellent verse was presented
to his home district and his contemporaries in his
book, Telyn Eryri. Owen William Francis, his brother
was a musician who composed tunes for hymns of various
denominations; his dependable and praiseworthy accompanist
was Robert Owen Drws y Coed, who roamed all of Wales,
England and Ireland to support their famous duet.
In 1927, under the sponsorship of the BBC, the Brothers broadcast from Dublin,
and we heard their thrilling voices through the ether
from Ireland. Their favourite songs were Y Border Bach,
Pentref Bach Drws y Coed, Caru Cymru, Gwerfyl Arfon,
Cyn Gollwng Cwn y Gelli, Melin Trefin, Stella, a'r
emyn Carcharorion Angau. Their names adorned the sides
of the main pavilion at the National Eisteddfod in
the 1920s together with the names of past and present
prize-winning poets in the days before there was a
movable pavilion.
It was a great loss to Wales when both were called to eternal peace in 1936.
During the same period as the Francis Brothers, there were many talented reciters
who had won praise and prizes in different Eisteddfods
throughout Wales. One of the most prominent was Llew
Deulyn, that is to say Isaac Benjamin Williams, Tŷ
Capel Nantlle who won a carved black oak chair at Tywyn
Eisreddfod in 1901, and who trained others including
Lizzie Jones (LJ) ac Eillion, D O Jones her husband,
also Robert Owen (RO).
We children would listen intently to RO reciting Mab y Bwthyn by Cynan, and enjoying
his thrilling interpretation in many charitable meetings
in the vestry. There was talent among the children
also, and Cantata’r Adar was performed under the sponsorship
of the Band of Hope, and trained by Evan John Hughes
and Evan Parry, overseer of the quarry in the 1930s.
Later, after the Second World War, a trio of three sisters (Eryl, Marian and
Heulwen Morris) succeded in taking the prize under
the name of Brethyn Cartref at the National Eisteddfod
in Newtown in 1965. Amongst the children of Baladeulyn
in the 1950s, they deserve unending praise.
As it is said, 'self praise is no recommendation' but whilst mentioning Eisteddfods,
I will take the opportunity to put in here a tiny piece
about my own achievements,. Three different first prizes
came to me in Metalwork in the Eisteddfods at Llanrwst
in 1951; Rhyl in 1953 and Ystrad Gynlais in 1954; as
well as second prize in Fine Arts in Caernarfon 1959.
In 1956 I was honoured to receive the “Messengers Award”
whilst I was following the training course at the School
of Silversmiths and Jewelry in Hockley, Birmingham. [ Back to the Top ]
No Traffic 1925-1927
An unforgettable event was when the Post Road between Nantlle and Talysarn collapsed
into the chasm of the Dorothea Quarry in 1925. This
happened twice despite the redirection of the road
through Plasdŷ Talysarn to avoid the weak point next
to the hole. This latest piece collapsed into the hole
after the 9pm bus belonging to Jim Jones, Caernarfon
passed that spot, to the great relief of those on board
on their journey back to Caernarfon. This was a subject
of great thanksgiving to Providence for the people
of the area for a long time after.
Thereafter every traveller from Nantlle had to walk two miles to the terminus
at Pen y Bont Talysarn to meet the bus of Jim Jones
or Mrs Evans, Liod for Caernarfon; and if going by
train, it was necessary to walk a futher quarter of
a mile to Talysarn on the Nantlle Railway line.
Four shops and the post office depended on it for their stock. The postman on
his bike was able to go to and fro like everyone else
along the little tranway that carried the horse-drawn
slate waggons from Penyrorsedd, Pen y Bryn and Dorothea
Quarries. The postman would wait in the village of
Drws y Coed during the day after delivering the morning
post in Nantlle and then in the afternoon collect letters
from the boxes through the village down to Penygroes.
It was a most inconvenient time In the case of funerals, and such circumstances
occured four times, when it was necessary for the vehicles
to go back and forth from Nantlle through Drws y Coed,
Betws Garmon, Waunfawr, Caeathro, Pontllyfni, to reach
the cemeteries of Macpela, Penygroes or Llanllyfni
as required.
As pupils of the County School in Penygroes, we had to either get a bike or walk
the 3 ½ miles. Pupils of an earlier age would have
always done this in all weathers. For two years I would
cycle there every school day, until the new road (including
three bridges between the two villages) was built on
the southern side of the valley.
It was necessary to test the strength and capability of the bridges to withstand
the weight to be expected for the traffic at that time.
Three steam rollers were put on them to test the strength
of the bridges before allowing traffic on them.
After some years, they had to be further strengthened, because the weight of
lorries and buses had increased and weight restrictions
were placed upon them. [ Back to the Top ]
Entertainment before 1939
At the beginning of the 30s, an industrial depression spread throughout the country,
and the number of unemployed rose to 2,000,000 in the
period 1931 – 1935: parties of colliers from South
Wales came to Nantlle and other villages in the Valley
to raise money for their upkeep. They would have bed
and breakfast in many a quarryman’s home and in the
cold winter evenings, they would continue to sing and
collect money in their caps. Some were members of Rev.
Tom Nefyn’s church and great was their respect for
him.
The quarryman’s weekly wage at that time was £1.18. 0 and the journeyman £1.15.0.
Perhaps the pay at the end of the month would rise
to some £3 – 4: this bonus would soon disappear among
a family of 6 or more.
But in spite of all the poverty the lads of Nantlle would make their own amusements.
The chief games were choosing teams for football, cricket
and quoits; in the summer, learning to swim in Llyn
Nantlle was very popular, and sports days were enjoyed
with running, jumping and throwing the weight (14lbs).
This has all disappeared now, there are no lads here who delight in this sort
of amusement, but perhaps there is the opportunity
for some of them to join a football club and have pay
and travel expenses.
I remember that as Easter approached, the posters would appear advertising football
tournaments in Talysarn, Penygroes and Rhos Isaf and
that teams would pay a shilling each from their own
pockets to join. Once the Cup came to Nantlle under
the leadership of our captain Hywel Hughes (a quarryman
who became a Calvinistic Methodist Minister after going
to college); we beat the Penygroes Central School team
in the final at Cae Alun, Talymaes and we had a medal
for each member of the team. On Thanksgiving Monday
the boys would have saved their pennies to buy a new
leather football at the shop of Dafydd Sadler Penygroes
and get a tin of Dubbin from Dafydd to rub into the
leather to prevent it being damaged by the wet. The
greatest pleasure was to go to the football field and
have a game between the denominations, afternoon and
evening.
Once, a team of boys was chosen to represent Penyrorsedd Quarry in a competitive
tournament within the walls of Plas Glynllifon. This
was after a hard day’s work in the quarry and they
were competing against Emlyn Jones’ team from Bontnewydd,
but, more’s the pity, they lost 1 – 0 and to their
disappointment were eliminated frrom the competition.
As I already mentioned, almost every boy in Nantlle had learned to swim – there
was no need for a better swimming pool than Llyn Nantlle
and the older quarrymen would join us after their day’s
work. Once a great crowd had gathered to welcome and
assist Blind Thomas from Fron who intended to swim
across Llyn Nantlle in the company of the brothers
Harry Lloyd and Bob Rees Roberts who were already familiar
with the enjoyment of this challenge. There was also
a boat available to follow the swimmers on that hot
afternoon in July and a large crowd of men, women and
children enjoyed this unforgettable incident in the
life of one so popular as Blind Tom.
[ Back to the Top ]
Nantlle Youth Club’s Weekly Paper
Y Cyfnodydd
Price 1d
Editor: Owen M Roberts
After returning in frail health to his home area in Nantlle, having served his
country in the Air Force both in this country and in
India, my cousin, Owen Myfyr Roberts was appointed
a deacon In Baladeulyn Calvinistic Methodist Church,
and he was a great supporter and assisted greatly in
the denomination in the village until the time came
in his career for him to move on and take charge of
one or two other chapels.
A new generation of young people has arisen since then in Nantlle, born and bred
during the Second World War and Myfyr took on the task
of forming the Nantlle Youth Club, editing and publishing
weekly the news and activities of the Club for a penny
and numbering the pages and dating them. I will quote
from a copy I own -
Number 7 Wednesday 24th November 1954. I understand there is enough news to make
a page. It is a pity that these pages are not remembered
and kept to this day to praise the late Myfyr for all
his effort and hard work with Nantlle Youth Club.
Editor OM Roberts, Cynlas, Nantlle.
Diary Page 18th February 1951
Very cold weather, although the wind is from the sea. Snow on the mountain tops.
Noticed the grass greening and the catkins on the hazels,
a few birds singing. Rhydur Waterfall as shining silver,
the newspapers speak of the unusually wet weather we
are having. Two farmers manuring and lifting swedes.
The lake very wild with knots of white foam on the
crests of the waves and one water fowl diving and surfacing
again and again. Snowdon is white from head to foot,
two killed climbing it last week.
19th February 1951
Snow, cold throughout the morning and hail in the afternoon but it cleared soon
and the sun started to shine. The view from Pont y
Bala was like some vista of Switzerland. The Lake quite
still and blue, and the white mountain peaks in their
form around the banks because the wind did not touch
the edges of the circle.
Another colour was the gold of the reeds as the sun was setting, reddening the
mountain snows. A cormorant came on his black wings,
some fifty feet above, leisurely flying toward the
lower lake as he sensed I was below, turning suddenly
to change course. The river was in full spate and water
lay on the fields.
[ Back to the Top ]
The Club Diary
- 3rd December Club visit to Waunfawr Chapel
- 9th December Whist
Drive
[ Back to the Top ]
Notes from the Valley
Last Thursday, under the sponsorship of the Youth Club, there was a lecture by
Mr W J Davies, (Gwilym Peris) Caernarfon. His subject
was “Word Pictures” and his aim was to stimulate an
interest in classical literature among the young. He
dealt with the works of Thomas Hardy, Kate Roberts
and Rev. D Tegla Davies amongst others, clarifying
that which the authors were trying to present in their
stories. He was a master of his subject, and we hope
he inspired in his listeners the desire to read the
books he outlined in such a lively fashion.
The Club was visited by members of Bethel Youth Club and all had a most entertaining
evening. Bethel Club was beaten in the quiz by only
half a mark. Following refreshments provided by the
girls of the Nantlle Club, there were games and dancing.
In the Sunday evening service, the Church expressed its sympathy to Mr David
J Williams, 4 Glan Rhonwy in his bereavement, having
lost his sister. We are sad to note the sudden death
of Mrs T S Jones, 3 Victoria Terrace. A well loved,
friendly and noble lady and very devoted to the religious
cause in Baladeulyn. She was among the faithful in
the Sunday morning service, and it is sad to see her
seat vacant.
There was a tasty supper to open the Literary Society Tuesady evening 16th November
1951, with a varied meeting to follow. There were solos
by Glenys P Jones and Mr Huw Jones and recitations
by Mr G O Jones. Ninety nine members joined the society
this year.
Few people know that the history of Baladeulyn Eisteddfod goes back to the middle
of the last century (19th). We have in our possession
a tune performed before the competitive meeting in
Baladeulyn Chapel in March 1874. Also there is a report
on a Baladeulyn literary meeting in 1877 in the National
Library of Wales with the adjudications of Rev. Evan
Jones, Caernarfon on the various competitions.
[ Back to the Top ]
The Poets’ Column
Going through old handwritten papers I found some “englynion” (a popular type
of four-line Welsh alliterative verse) with critical
reviews by Ioan Arfon. I gather they are eisteddfod
entries, and they are memorial inscriptions to John
(Siôn) Hughes and his wife Ann. Ioan Arfon’s handwriting
is quite illegible in places, and I cannot give all
of his adjudication on the winning englyn. “He was
more elegant in his use of language, without his ideas
being more poetic than the others. . . . . .” He judged
the prize on the grounds of word and conscience.
I cautiously presume that this is the englyn by BP, after research into the death
of John Hughes and his wife Ann; and that my great,
great grandfather was John Hughes y Grafog, brother
of Robert Hughes, Uwchlaw'r Ffynnon, from the Bod Angharad
family. (On the Welsh version of this web page, the
original verse epitaph for Ann Hughes is to be seen,
and also memorial englynion by Carneddog for Owen Francis
and Bob Owen).
[ Back to the Top ]
The Youth Club
The choir, under the leadership of Mr Harry Eddy, is busy learning a piece by
Sir Hugh Roberton “All in the April Evening” for the
Baladeulyn Eisteddfod. Also they are practicing carols
as they intend to go around the village singing them
at Christmas time.
[ Back to the Top ]
Also from the past
I have alredy quoted from the notes which were seen in the Youth Club Diary by
my cousin Myfyr. The account of the relics and the
old coins is extremely interesting as regards the history
of Baladeulyn area, and thanks to Myfyr for reminding
us in his research to safeguard the history of his
adopted district.
Printed and published in the County Education Office on behalf of Nantlle Youth
Club.
Editor: Owen Myfyr Roberts
[ Back to the Top ]
Antiquaries
I have quoted some of the work of the Reverends William Hobley and William R
Ambrose and my great grandfather Owen J Hughes, Y Grafog,
in these few observations on the antiquities of Baladeulyn,
but since the treatise of O J Hughes went missing when
Owen Jones, Bryn Eisteddfod, Llandudno handed over
the compositions and adjudications to his fellow adjudicator
Gwalchmai, on 6th April 1871, the question I then ask
is – Where has the second place essay by ‘Un o Hil
Rhodri’ gone after it was in the hands of Gwalchmai?
This has been a great mystery to his family for over a century and a half.
I shall attempt to note the chapters of his essay on 'Hynafiaethau a Chofiannau
Nant Nantlle' in the competition at the Penygroes Eisteddfod
on Easter Monday 1871 as follows:
- Chapter 1 General Introduction.
- Chapter 2 Definition of the
place.
- Chapter 3 Local names within the boundaries
such as farms, their taxation value, their size and
their owners.
- Chapter 4 Memorandum about the beginning
and growth of the religious cause among the various
denominations, reminiscences about the old ministers.
- Chapter
5 Observations on the nature of the rocks worked
in the slate quarries, the successive
adventurers in the quarries, the different sorts
of slate that are cut and the value of that which
is produced.
- Chapter 6 Recalling famous people
of the Nantlle valley.
- Chapter 7 Conclusion with stories
arising from the foregoing links, that gradually
raised the Nantlle valley until reaching
the present situation.
Perhaps the lot will come to light some day, who knows?
[ Back to the Top ]
Baladeulyn, Nant Nantlle Today
Not a single quarryman lives in Nantlle Village now but sometimes I imagine I
can hear their footsteps coming and going from Penyrorsedd
Quarry morning and evening, where I spent four years
in my early life, before the coming of the Second World
War and the subsequent call to battle like many another
village lad who left his homeland for six years of
his life, thankful to Providence for his safety and
opening the door to new hope for the future. During
the last twenty years there has been an influx of English
people to reside in the village. Initially their plans
were to have summer cottages until the day of their
retirement, and today not much Welsh is to be heard
on the street as before and only a small number of
the descendants of old families still loyal to the
religious cause remain now.
The foreigners are rapidly
outweighing the Welsh speakers. The times have changed
completely since the Second World War, where once there
were only three or four owners of motor cars, but today
in a wealthier age, cars are to be seen in front of almost every house, and in some house two or three
for the same family. Their youngest children are taken
by a parent to school by car to keep the numbers up,
lest the school close because there are not enough
children in Nantlle to keep the school open. Today
they are bilingual, like in several of the County’s
schools. The older children are conveyed to the upper
schools free, as the Education Committee pays the bill.
The number of pensioners is increasing, and they now have free travel passes
on the buses of Wales and since the cost of living
is so high, more of them depend on the Welfare State
to support them.
There is no shop or post office in Nantlle village, where I remember when I was
growing up, five shops and a Postmaster, also coal,
paraffin and petrol were sold at Bryncir House. Many
changes have occured in the history of Plas Baladeulyn,
where the owners have changed six times since Mr & Mrs Stonor’s family left in the 1920s. By now the name has been changed to Trigonos,
and belongs to a community group but before this company
was established, it was known as the Richard Wilson
Centre in memory of the famous picture of Snowdon from
Llyn Nantlle by that painter.
The Nantlle News Committee was established here to work with Trigonos, to discuss
as a Nantlle community action group and they published
their news bulletin in the village now and again. Arising
from this, the committee went into partnership with
the same sort of committee in Talysarn, and the two
are called the Talysarn and Nantlle Partnership. Exellent
things are expected to come from this Partnership which
is busily making an effort to develop community entertainment.
Perhaps new life will come to the area and success
and prosperity will dawn anew in these villages despite
the poverty of the past since the age of the quarryman
came to an end. [ Back to the Top ]
A list of the names of the Quarries
I would like to list here the names of the quarries whose sirens we would hear
as a shot-firing warning throughout the day when they
were in full operation:
• Penyrorsedd
• Dorothea (and
the big clock)
• Y Cilgwyn
• Y Fron a'r Foel
• Pen-y-Bryn
• Gallt Fedw
• Talysarn
• Nant y Fron
• Cors y Bryniau
They are all silent now since the Second world war 1939-1945, and, more’s the
pity, the lads who loved them have left.
[ Back to the Top ]
Translated
by Vernon Oldfield from the original 'Baladeulyn Ddoe
a Heddiw' by Thomas Alun Williams
|
